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Fashion

15 best looks from Dior’s circus-themed Haute Couture show in Paris 

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Fashion 时尚

迪奥2019年春夏高级定制时装秀

15 best looks from Dior’s circus-themed Haute Couture show in Paris 

2019春夏高级定制巴黎时装周正式开启,Christian Dior 本季以马戏团为主题,在巴黎罗丹美术馆呈现了一场耳目一新的大秀。本系列作品的视觉顺序,不禁激发人们对马戏团的回忆与想象,再现马戏团与服装、时尚和艺术之间的关联,我们为你精选出秀场上15套精美衣装。

文  /  Hayley Zhang   /   24 Jan 2019
Fashion, Dior, Dior Couture, Haute Couture, Celebrities, Paris, Dior Dream Parade,

https://www.iconsingapore.com/gallery/fashion/15-best-looks-from-diors-circus-themed-haute-couture-show-in-paris-%ef%bb%bf/
15 best looks from Dior's circus-themed Haute Couture show in Paris 
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马戏团是一个令人陶醉的奇妙空间。众多艺术家被这美妙原始,又充满诗意纯粹的空间所吸引,由此激发出天马行空的想象力。
Christian Dior先生曾经非常喜欢前往冬日马戏团(Cirque d’hiver),而著名美国摄影师Richard Avedon也在1955年拍摄了大名鼎鼎的摄影作品《多维玛和大象》(Dovima et les éléphants),用镜头语言演绎魔法的神奇与高级定制时装的魅力。1950年,在品牌于伦敦萨沃伊酒店(Hotel Savoy)举办时装秀之际,英国电视台曾拍摄了一部名为“Dior « Circus » Comes to Town”(迪奥马戏团在城中演出)的报道。

后来,继任的创意总监John Galliano也曾将马戏团主题再次引入Dior作品之中。和马戏团的开场表演一样,时装秀也相当于一场时尚的“马戏表演”。经常前往麦德哈诺马戏团的Jean Cocteau聚集Pablo Picasso、Erik Satie、Serge de Diaghilev、Léonide Massine及Federico Fellini几位二十世纪的著名艺术家,共同编写芭蕾舞剧《Parade》(游行)。该剧曾在意大利罗马(Dior女装创意总监Maria Grazia Chiuri的故乡)和那不勒斯上演,随后又于1917年登上巴黎的舞台。

这种包罗万象的创意灵思成为Maria Grazia Chiuri设计2019春夏季高级定制系列的出大点。本系列作品的视觉顺序可激发人们对马戏团的回忆与想象,再现马戏团与服装、时尚和艺术之间的关联,并令人联想到辛Cindy Sherman创作的小丑艺术作品。

本系列交织不同图像:女性的肌肤覆以刺青,使人联想到维多利亚时代的马戏团及当时的热闹集市,这些精美图案构成身体的一部分,在裙摆之下将故事娓娓道来。柔和的色彩微妙渐变,与无穷变幻的美妙色盘融为一体,与Pablo Picasso为芭蕾舞剧《Parade》绘制的舞台帷幕有着异曲同工之妙,同时象征时光的痕迹,宛若轻覆在舞台服装之上的尘灰。半身裙点缀刺绣或拼镶不透明亮片,长度缩短成精美短裙,其风格令人联想到住满杂技演员、驯兽师和骑士的马戏团。

Maria Grazia Chiuri采用多变造型来构建自己的“马戏团表演”:宽松的长裤质地轻盈,脚踝处收紧,可以变为奢华精美的连身衣裤。短裤与半透明白色衬衫巧妙混搭,点缀仿佛被时光磨损的绉边或饰带。本系列的皮革胸衣、海魂衫或黑色外套则以驯兽师的造型为灵感。白色小丑的几何图案服装时而质朴,时而奢华,面料、刺绣和比例均经过重新演绎。

女性马戏团Mimbre亦为本场时装秀献上精彩表演,以精演出凸显杂技演员之间的信任与关系。

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MCI (P) 030/12/2022. Published by SPH Media Limited, Co. Regn. No. 202120748H. Copyright © 2023 SPH Media Limited. All rights reserved.