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Fashion

7 trends we love from Haute Couture Spring Summer 2018

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Fashion 时尚

2018春夏高定系列7大流行趋势

7 trends we love from Haute Couture Spring Summer 2018

高级定制系列,作为奢华的代名词,每一套服装精致华丽,凝聚了设计师们的努力和心血。今年的春夏系列,除了有美轮美奂,手工细腻的华服外,各大品牌亦玩出新意,将嫩粉亮片薄纱、黑白螺旋波纹、羽毛头饰造型和晕染水彩印花等创意元素搬上伸展台,且随《ICON》一窥今年春夏高定的独特魅力。

文  /  Hayley Zhang  /   18 Apr 2018
Chanel,Dior,Valentino,Jean Paul Gaultier,Givenchy,Giorgio Armani,Giambattista Valli ,hauteur couture, spring summer,spring summer 2018,fashion,trend, report

https://www.iconsingapore.com/gallery/fashion/7-trends-we-love-from-haute-couture-spring-summer-2018/
7 trends we love from Haute Couture Spring Summer 2018
2018春夏高定系列7大流行趋势
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浪漫法式花园/Chanel
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枝叶茂密的花架拱廊,环绕着位于伸展台中央的喷泉,Chanel把巴黎大皇宫被改造成一座绿意盎然的公园,嘉宾则坐在花园旁的长椅上,近距离欣赏本季作品的精致细节。创意总Karl Lagerfeld监说:“春天的感觉总离不开花朵,我总是跟着感觉做设计。”香奈儿的经典粗花呢裙套装在系列中频频出现,加上肩部分割线与裙摆羽毛装饰,成为设计亮点之一。塔型长裙搭配层层流速,亮片和薄纱面料同样是引人注目。这一季,也结合了甜美不失现代感的色调——嫩粉色、珊瑚红、薄荷绿及电光蓝等,彰显清雅的女性气息。

浪漫法式花园/Chanel
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浪漫法式花园/Chanel
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浪漫法式花园/Chanel
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浪漫法式花园/Chanel
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刚强与温柔/Givenchy
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Givenchy新任创意总监Clare Waight Keller 执掌品牌后的首场高定秀,以“夜晚花园”为灵感,把时装的结构性与流动性完美结合,展现女性的刚强与温柔。本季高定系列,从Hubert de Givenchy创造出的经典造型出发,大量使用创始人热爱的黑色,且以流苏、蕾丝、荷叶边妆点出轻盈妩媚的动感,无论在廓形、色调上都做了新的开拓。Clare将硬朗与华丽放入女装礼服的构想中,在女装中融入了男装锋利的剪裁,又以流苏装饰增添柔和度;或是在帅气的军装长袍上,加入柔美的羽毛点缀,典雅又不失风度。

刚强与温柔/Givenchy
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刚强与温柔/Givenchy
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刚强与温柔/Givenchy
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棋盘上的姿色/Dior
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黑白西洋棋盘铺设为伸展台,巨大鸟笼和白色肢体石膏悬挂空中,搭配迷幻的音乐旋律,Dior首位女创意总监Maria Grazia Chiuri从艺术家Leonor Fini的艺术思维中汲取灵感,以黑白为主色调,呈现出超现实主义的美感。扭曲的棋盘格礼服、布满圆点的狭窄外套、模特儿戴着黑色面具与眼罩……黑与白的超现实魅力,在Maria的创作世界是充满神秘的力量。越简单的色彩,越能展现细腻的做工,本季也使用了百褶技法、蕾丝、羽毛、薄纱等浪漫元素,而服装轮廓依旧保留了品牌的优雅剪裁,让Dior礼服在梦想与现实间摇曳。

棋盘上的姿色/Dior
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棋盘上的姿色/Dior
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棋盘上的姿色/Dior
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棋盘上的姿色/Dior
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千变迷人/ Giorgio Armani
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创意总监Giorgio Armani将变化无穷的“云彩”转换成本季系列灵感源泉,每一处细节都传达出空灵之感。Armani Prive春夏高订系列的轮廓鲜明,前半部的时装秀偏向职场风范,剪裁利落的西装略显中性化,外套的收腰线条与直线版型裤款搭配出女性的干练个性。随后,渐渐转向小礼服和裙装,薄纱渐染层叠勾勒出柔美曲线,如水彩画的印花图案跃现于科技面料上,流露高雅梦幻之美。这一季,硬挺与轻软面料的配衬表现和谐的刚柔对比,展现女人的千变魅力。

千变迷人/ Giorgio Armani
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千变迷人/ Giorgio Armani
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千变迷人/ Giorgio Armani
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千变迷人/ Giorgio Armani
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歌剧魅惑/Valentino
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Valentino的高定系列梦幻而富有诗意,创意总监Pierpaolo Piccioli以意式歌剧为设计灵感,让人仿若置身于中世纪的宫廷宴会之中。缤纷的色彩、拼花图案、经典的大廓形,凸显独立自主又具女人味的现代女性;薄纱、宽大的荷叶廓形、蝴蝶结等细节构成了鲜明的视觉效果;而羽毛、花卉等独特的头饰造型更为礼服增添不少创意与神秘色彩。碎钻和亮片装饰作为高级定制的标配,既诠释了精巧的手工底蕴亦彰显出奢华质感。

歌剧魅惑/Valentino
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歌剧魅惑/Valentino
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歌剧魅惑/Valentino
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歌剧魅惑/Valentino
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时尚游乐场/Jean Paul Gaultier
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不改“顽童”本性,今年66岁的设计师Jean Paul Gaultier将充满童心的不羁幻想以服装的形式呈现在世人面前。诠释活力和童趣,鲜艳的色彩必然不可缺少,本季运用了色调抢眼的黄色、绿色和粉色等,大玩时尚新意。Jean也不忘经典的黑白两色,从模特儿的发髻、首饰、再到服装,无处不见螺旋波纹的踪影,加上灵巧的剪裁,不仅让服装带有建筑的美学质感,更碰撞出新颖别致的视觉效果。本季Jean Paul Gaultier时装秀的压轴,则为加拿大超模Coco Rocha带着两岁女儿Ioni Conran一起走秀,尽显童真,可爱极了。

时尚游乐场/Jean Paul Gaultier
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时尚游乐场/Jean Paul Gaultier
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时尚游乐场/Jean Paul Gaultier
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梦幻层次感/Giambattista Valli
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Giambattista Valli 2018春夏高定系列,延续了擅长的印花及雪纺的层叠效果,精巧打造了短裙和修身透视长裙。白色、黑色为本季的主色调;粉红、粉黄以及艳丽碎花的点缀则为系列注入了春天的清幽仙气。这一季,垂坠的裙摆还有层层堆叠的大摆纱裙成亮点,抽皱的设计,错落重叠,繁杂却有致,仅显法式优雅。除了浪漫的长裙之外,简洁利落的裙子也悉数登场,裙上镶有花蕾和珠宝装饰,让现代与复古完美结合,成功营造一种轻松俏的氛围。

梦幻层次感/Giambattista Valli
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梦幻层次感/Giambattista Valli
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梦幻层次感/Giambattista Valli
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