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Restaurant of the week: Xin Divine defines modern Chinese cuisine with a Western twist

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Lifestyle 生活

本周餐厅:馨宴用西式烹饪技巧诠释现代中餐

Restaurant of the week: Xin Divine defines modern Chinese cuisine with a Western twist

Duxton Hill新开了一间餐馆,名叫馨宴(Xin Divine),它的logo颇具特色,十足的中国风,它的装潢却非常西式,而它的菜肴,老板李馨匀(Jolin Lee)特地去了个名字叫“馨派创意菜”。

文  /  李穗婷  /   16 Mar 2018
Restaurant of the week: Xin Divine defines modern Chinese cuisine with a Western twist

https://www.iconsingapore.com/gallery/lifestyle/restaurant-week-xin-divine-defines-modern-chinese-cuisine-western-twist/
Restaurant of the week: Xin Divine defines modern Chinese cuisine with a Western twist
海鲜冷蒸蛋
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四川红油抄手
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牛肝菌汤
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法国童子鸡
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智利鲈鱼
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四川辣子鸡
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桂花清汤
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餐厅内部空间
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贵宾室(私人包厢)
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酒窖
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Duxton Hill新开了一间餐馆,名叫馨宴(Xin Divine),它的logo颇具特色,十足的中国风,它的装潢却非常西式,而它的菜肴,老板李馨匀(Jolin Lee)特地去了个名字叫“馨派创意菜”。其实就是融合料理(fusion),融合了西式的烹饪技巧与中式的传统风味,外观看起来以为是西餐,但尝起来的味道却是完完全全的中餐。

Restaurant of the week: Xin Divine defines modern Chinese cuisine with a Western twist
餐厅老板李馨匀与三位主厨

餐厅老板李馨匀表示,当代的华人消费者越来越追求优质用餐环境与精致料理的需求,传统的中餐馆并不能提供这样的条件,但中餐依旧是华人最熟悉、感到最舒适的料理,所以她希望借助西式先进的烹饪技巧与服务理念,将传统的中式菜肴以全新的形式呈现在顾客面前。在本地开设馨宴之前,李馨匀的事业重心一度在上海,她非常熟悉当地私人会所的经营理念与模式,也与私人厨师合作密切,她的野心远不止于开餐厅,而是希望以馨宴为开端,站稳脚跟之后再朝私人会所的方向发展。在她看来,现在的顾客需求越来越私人化,这也是今后服务业的发展趋势。

其实在上海,这几年融合料理非常受欢迎,从平价的大众餐饮到奢华的高档餐厅或私人会所,“融合”是餐馆里最常见到的词,西餐的外观,中式的口味,是这代中国年轻人最喜爱的餐饮形式。虽是融合,但却定位明确,西餐是借来包装的外壳,而核心依旧是传统中国菜。

馨宴有三位厨师,一位粤菜师傅,一位川菜师傅,还有一位精通法国与意大利料理的西餐主厨。所有的菜肴都是三位厨师通力协作的结晶,一般由法国料理主厨提供创新概念,传授烹饪技巧,而粤菜与川菜两位师傅则是在不断的试菜中确保最好的成品忠于传统的中式料理。

坐落于Duxton Hill三楼店屋,一楼是酒吧Divine Bar,二楼是用餐区域,并有一个空间宽敞的包厢。我们当天的第一道前菜是海鲜冷蒸蛋,广式丝滑的蒸蛋,顶层是凝固的虾仁汤,配上鲑鱼子与蟹肉,口感清爽,非常开胃。四川红油抄手里的云吞改用意式饺子的形式,皮更厚一些,剁碎的黑猪肉与芥菜做馅,汤汁的味道还是非常传统,川辣,略带生姜,并带着浙江陈醋的酸酸味道。女儿红鲨鱼骨汤里的白酒稀释了鱼骨汤浓郁厚重的口感,增添了酒味,倒是更加爽口。这是很养生的一道汤品了,鲨鱼骨汤中还有干贝、鲍鱼与大白菜,非常进补。

法国童子鸡则以醉鸡为基础,加入了女儿红、绍兴酒与花雕酒,在鸡肉里加入鹅肝,利用法式烹饪技巧炸出酥脆的皮,外酥里嫩,鹅肝的味道与酒味交织在一起,很特别。智利鲈鱼则是馨宴版本的四川酸汤鱼,汤汁还是传统的酸汤,微辣微酸的味道。而鲈鱼的制作方式不同于传统的水煮,而是经过了短暂的煎炒,而鱼肉依旧非常鲜嫩。

过去还在上中学的时候,妈妈总是在夜晚我伏案读书时,为我煮小米粥,帮助健胃消食。馨宴的海鲜养生小米煲则比普通的小米粥多了许多好料,用鸡汤煮,加入蒸南瓜,让小米粥有微甜的味道更加入口,而蟹肉、淮山药以及松露泡沫则更加滋养身体。最后的桂花清汤被封在了透明的果冻中,戳破它,汤汁立即流了出来,桂花、枸杞、胖大海,将经过苏打处理的冬瓜汤倒入其中,冰爽清甜,还起到舒缓喉咙、改善肠胃的功能,是餐后甜品的最佳选择。

餐厅的一楼酒吧Divine Bar现在正在研发全新的鸡尾酒,要加入中草药与传统中国酒元素,让其更有东方色彩。而如果你去那里喝酒,也不要错过他们的佐酒小食,无论是四川辣子鸡还是酱炒萝卜糕都是非常正宗地道的风味,配上现代的鸡尾酒或西式酒品,别有一番风味。

 

馨宴(Xin Divine)

地址:10 Duxton Hill, Singapore 089594

电话:3100 0030

 

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MCI (P) 030/12/2022. Published by SPH Media Limited, Co. Regn. No. 202120748H. Copyright © 2023 SPH Media Limited. All rights reserved.