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Chaumet presents latest high jewellery collection with inspiration from Africa

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Watches & Jewellery 精表珠宝

尚美巴黎以珠宝向非洲致敬

Chaumet presents latest high jewellery collection with inspiration from Africa

尚美巴黎(Chaumet)以三部曲形式发布“尚美的世界”(Les Mondes de Chaumet)年度高级珠宝系列,在巴黎压轴登场的“非域珍藏”(Tresors d’Afrique)是以非洲为主题。

文  /  胡锦伟  /   20 Jul 2018
Chaumet presents latest high jewellery collection with inspiration from Africa

https://www.iconsingapore.com/gallery/watches-and-jewellery/chaumet-presents-latest-high-jewellery-collection-with-inspiration-from-africa/
Chaumet presents latest high jewellery collection with inspiration from Africa
“皇家瀑布”主题中这条可拆卸的间金项链(白金与黄金),镶嵌一颗7.15克拉祖母绿、九颗马眼形切割钻石(每颗重0.45至0.8克拉之间)、缟玛瑙及明亮式切割钻石。
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“皇家瀑布”主题中这对间金耳环(白金与黄金),镶嵌两颗鲜绿色振兴切割祖母绿(1.98和1.88克拉)、缟玛瑙和马眼形切割钻石。
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护身图腾中这个玫瑰金手镯,镶嵌一颗圆锥形青金石(6克拉)、光玉髓、黑檀木和圆形橘色石榴石。
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“金色大地”主题中这枚间金戒指(白金与黄金),镶嵌两颗水滴形鸽血红宝石(3.80克拉)和明亮式切割钻石。
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“狂野生灵”主题中这枚狮子间金胸针(白金与黄金),镶嵌一颗明亮式切割D色VVS2净度钻石(0.80克拉),圆形蓝宝石、圆形黄色蓝宝石和粉色蓝宝石。
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“狂野生灵”主题中这枚火烈鸟间金胸针(玫瑰金与黄金),镶嵌明亮式切割香槟色钻石、马眼形切割粉色蓝宝石(2.10克拉)、明亮式切割钻石、缟玛瑙、粉色蛋白石、白色玛瑙、弧面形切割绿玉髓、青金石、黄水晶、绿松石和红碧玺。
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“狂野生灵”主题中这枚长颈鹿间金胸针(白金与黄金),采用大明火珐琅工艺,镶嵌黑檀木、水晶、缟玛瑙和明亮式切割钻石。
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7月初的巴黎犹如兵家之地,除了是秋冬季巴黎高定时尚周之外,各大高级珠宝品牌也同时推出年度精品。2018年,尚美巴黎本着探索异域文化的精神,以三部曲形式发布“尚美的世界”(Les Mondes de Chaumet)年度高级珠宝系列,继推出以俄罗斯和日本文化为发想的首二部曲之后,在巴黎压轴登场的“非域珍藏”(Tresors d’Afrique)是以非洲为主题。

不少品牌曾推出以非洲为灵感的珠宝单品,但是像尚美 巴黎这样设计一整个系列的非洲主题高级珠宝,倒算是空前。这组珠宝并非表面化地撷取部族图腾、颜色等典型的非洲元素,而是对非洲文化进行解读、消化和再创造,将其精髓构成独特的视觉语言和设计概念,结合品牌的精湛工艺推出五个主题的非洲意象作品。

“金色大地” (Terres d’Or)主题,以非洲广袤天地的色彩为灵感,红色与金色图形交织呼应,犹如大漠黄沙与非洲红土地的结合,并以红宝石和黄色蓝宝石为主石。

“皇家瀑布” (Cascades Royales)主题,顾名思义是以君主制的非洲为发想,象征昔日在这片土地上至高无上的皇权,并将之升华为皇族女性的美丽与声望,缟玛瑙的运用在此主题中展现非洲的野性美。

“圆石” (Ronde de Pierre)主题,让人联想到色彩绚丽的尼罗河风格首饰,或苏丹丁卡人或马赛人的珍珠饰物,这个主题采用圆形结构配合大片柔软缎带,以及流光溢彩的各色宝石,勾勒出非洲传统文化的缤纷美感。

“护身图腾”(Talismania)主题,从非洲装饰艺术中撷取灵感,采用有机形状的宝石雕刻手法,以圆头方式切割的硬石、缟玛瑙和宝石,设计出带有图腾特色的袖扣和戒指。乌木的采用是一大亮点,让人想起西方人口中的“touch wood”,原来非洲文化中也相信木头能带来好运。

“狂野生灵”(Espiegleries)主题,一系列可爱动物如猴子、火烈鸟、长颈鹿、大象等为意象的胸针,由肯尼亚艺术家埃文斯.姆布辜瓦(Evas Mbugua)跨刀设计,将其艺术创意嫁接到珠宝设计中,精致又逗趣。

一个世纪前的非洲,是毕加索、海明威等艺术及文学家眼中充满魅力的处女地,这片辽阔的大陆为他们提供了无数创作养分。今天的非洲依然有无限的宝藏等待发掘,尚美巴黎的新作就是佳例。

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