What the 17 winning hawkers of Michelin Guide's bib gourmand have to say/米其林小贩摊主的“获奖感言”

米其林公布在优惠价位提供优质美食的Bib Gourmand新加坡名单，34家上榜的馆子当中一半是小贩，凸显了小贩在国人日常饮食文化中占有重要部分。米其林将显著数量的小贩列入名单不仅对本地传统小贩是一剂强心针，也能吸引年轻人加入小贩行列。一起来听听摊主们的“获奖感言” 。

19 Jul 2016

芳林熟食中心。

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位于厦门街熟食中心的A Noodle Story小摊的港式叉烧面。

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虽然比较少年轻人当小贩，但这次入选米其林优质美食Bib Gourmand的，不乏年轻人组成的生力军。超好面的邱松铭（35岁）和谭晏桦（34岁），以及鱼缘鱼圆面年仅25岁的摊主黄正勇，都是近年来打响一定知名度的新一代小贩。黄正勇说：“入选名单对我来说是一大鼓舞，小贩传统应该保留下来，可惜这一行遇到许多挑战，希望这个名单能带来正面改变，鼓励更多年轻人也把小贩视为可受尊重的职业。”

三年前在厦门街熟食中心（Amoy Street Food Centre）经营超好面（A Noodle Story）的邱松铭（35岁）和谭晏桦（34岁），在这几年间就建立了一定名声，每天午餐时间吸引络绎不绝的食客。

他们自创“新式”拉面（即新加坡式拉面），结合不同国家的面食特色，如用港式云吞面条搭配特制叉烧和日式温泉蛋。两名老板原是尚德旅游管理学院（SHATEC）烹饪班同学，也都曾在滨海湾一带的餐馆任职。邱松铭说：“创业时，我们想以一种特别的食物为卖点。新加坡人喜欢吃拉面，我们便创新加入不同元素。我们到不同国家地方旅行时获得灵感，将当地美食特色融入其中，如香港云吞面等，配以特制酱料。这次能够获得这项殊荣，肯定了我们的努力，证明我们勇于创新的方向是正确的。”

大巴窑Chey Sua炒萝卜糕也榜上有名。

为了避开午餐人龙，上班族刘淑君（27岁）提早来排队。她告诉记者：“我前几天才刚吃，今天是为同事而买。我喜欢他们自创的拉面食物组合，尤其是马铃薯炸虾。即使是打包外带用的，老板也细心摆设好食物，可以感觉他们的诚意和认真。”

对小贩文化有浓厚兴趣的ieatishootipost美食博客郑春茂（Leslie Tay）医生说：“本地小贩业者面对后继无人的窘境，得到像米其林这样国际品牌的认可，能够鼓励更多年轻人加入小贩行业打拼。”郑春茂对小贩占了名单半数席位并不感到惊讶：“小贩们不像大餐馆那样有行销资源，因此通过米其林指南这个国际品牌登上全球大舞台，是值得高兴的事。现在就算远在冰岛的食家也能通过指南进一步了解新加坡如海南鸡饭的特色美食了。”

厦门街熟食中心就有四家小贩摊位入选。

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首个新加坡Bib Gourmand名单共有34家馆子上榜，17家是散布在本地各个小贩中心的小贩摊位。单在厦门街熟食中心里，就能找到四家入榜的小贩摊位，除了超好面，还有和记肉粽、驰名香脆咖喱卜和桐记牛肉粿条，是最多赢家的小贩中心。

从1958年开始营业的桐记牛肉粿条，经历几次搬迁，自1995年在厦门街熟食中心开档。老板陈赞东（58岁）从9岁开始帮忙父亲，现在和妹妹陈赞珍（52岁）一起经营档口。他们每天花12个小时熬牛骨汤，吸引的食客包括政要和明星。附近上班的老饕们也定期来光顾，缅甸籍Thant Zin（45岁）赞牛肉面分量多，汤底好喝，每星期来吃两三次。

和记肉粽的第三代老板周崇青（41岁）接受联合早报访问时说：“获奖是个肯定，而且能让更多本地及外国人认识新加坡美食。”澳大利亚籍游客Edward Shelton（36岁）正是看到了公布的名单，慕名上门试吃，并认为肉粽的味道美味。

驰名的脆皮咖喱卜。

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周崇青原本从事电信业，2010年加入家族生意，现在负责生意的不同环节，除了亲自到厨房帮忙，也开拓网络预订服务。他每天凌晨4时到位于红山厨房准备粽子的材料，之后和父母及姑妈们一起合力包裹粽子。早上10时，到档口负责开档，每天可售出约400个肉粽。为了开拓新顾客群，他也设立网站，推出预定服务。他的档口中央，就摆放了膝上型电脑，随时办公处理订单。

得奖也不影响食物的水平，这是驰名脆皮咖喱卜的夫妻档李明利（47岁）和吴金华（40岁）对食客的保证。吴金华说：“我们是手工食品，只有我们两个人做，每天能做的分量就只有这么多，大概400多个，售完为止。不可以为了做更多，让食物品质变得粗糙。”除了咖喱鸡肉卜，也有沙丁鱼、黑胡椒鸡肉、芋泥等口味。

原本开面包店的他们，2007年决定专注于制作咖喱卜，其特色是千层脆皮的咖喱卜，工序较繁多。他们每天早上8时开始售卖，边做边卖，由李明利准备馅料和面皮，吴金华负责包裹，合作无间。

其他入榜的知名小贩有中峇鲁广场熟食中心的宏兴炒苏东虾面、大巴窑的老字号青山菜头粿、芳林熟食中心的著名结霜桥三轮车叻沙等，以及曾经获联合早报和海峡时报颁发小贩至尊、位于麦士威熟食中心的天天海南鸡饭和位于黄埔通道小贩中心的豪华罗杂。

芳林熟食中心。

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芳林熟食中心的著名结霜桥三轮车叻沙。

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新民工业区内新乌敏海鲜。

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除小贩外，Bib Gourmand新加坡名单上还有芽笼煮炒店新山亚明小厨、恭锡街老字号国成球记餐室、新民工业区内新乌敏海鲜、新桥路松发肉骨茶和岌巴俱乐部（Keppel Club）内的玉河畔等中餐馆。

新山亚明小厨以白胡椒螃蟹和三楼米粉著称，老板亚明受访时说，之前没听说过米其林，前天早上睡醒时看到许多朋友捎来的短信，才知晓自己的餐馆被列入名单。他说：“我向来都是带着很单纯的理念去做菜，要做出以前妈妈的味道，强调原汁原味、镬气和古早味。现在获得这个荣誉当然感到兴奋，意味着我们付出的努力和做的菜都得到顾客的认同。”

新桥路松发肉骨茶。

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另一家列入名单的中餐馆玉河畔其实和米其林有些渊源，现任总厨廖新喜就曾经在澳门米其林三星中餐馆The Eight的总厨麾下学艺，2011年加入玉河畔掌厨，招牌菜有樟茶鸭、奶皇夏球、功夫茶。市场总监韩泰畴说：“我们严控食材素质，不使用味精，也保持一贯性，相信是我们获选原因。”

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